Parts for Detroit Diesel 16V149

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Piston and Connecting Rod on a Detroit 16V149

(1) Drain the cooling system.
(2) Drain the oil.
(3) Remove the lower oil pan and the hand-hole covers on the upper oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump and inlet and outlet pipes if necessary.
(5) Remove the cylinder head.
(6) Remove any carbon deposits from the upper inner surface of the cylinder liner.
(7) Remove the bearing cap and lower bearing shell from the connecting rod. Then push the piston and rod assembly out through the top of the cylinder block. The piston cannot be removed from the bottom of the cylinder block.

Assemble the Raw Water Pump Detroit 16V149

Replace the seal first, by doing the following:

(1) If removed, place the gaskets and seal seat over the shaft and press them into position in the seal cavity.
(2) Assemble the carbon seal and spring assembly in its proper position, and slide it over the shaft and against the seal seat.
(3) Compress the impeller blades to clear the offset cam, and press the impeller onto the splined shaft.
(4) Install the spline plug.
(5) Turn the impeller several turns in its normal operating direction to properly position the blade. (6) Use a new gasket, install the cover on the housing.

Assemble the pump bearing housing as follows (Jabsco Type)

(1) Lightly coat the outside diameter of a new oil seal with clean engine oil.
(2) From the drive end of the bearing housing, press new oil seal into seal bore. Seal lip must point to drive end of housing.
(3) With pressure applied to inner race of bearing, press bearing onto shaft.
(4) With pressure applied to outer race of outer bearing, install bearing and shaft subassembly into bearing housing.
(5) Install bearing retaining ring in bearing housing, ensuring ring is securely seated in the ring groove.
(6) Insert woodruff key into groove on shaft end.
(7) Gently tap drive gear onto shaft with a small plastic face mallet.
(8) Install flat washer, lock washer and retaining nut onto shaft.
(9) Hold shaft with a wrench on shaft flats at impeller end, and torque retaining nut to 33-41 N m or 24-30 lb ft.
(10) Install new adaptor flange gasket or o ring seal. Secure pump assembly to adaptor with six 3/8 in screws, flatwashers and lock washers. Torque to 18-20 N m or 13-15 lb ft.
(11) Using new gaskets, attach raw water pump inlet and outlet adaptors.

Get new oil seals and new bearings. Do not reuse oil seals or bearings

(1) Install the oil seal into the bearing housing from the drive end of the housing with the lip pointing to the bearings. Use engine oil to ease assembly.
(2) Install the bearing onto the shaft by pressing on the inner race of the bearing.
(3) Install the shaft and bearing assembly into the bearing housing by pressing on the outer race of the bearing.
(4) Install the snap ring into the groove of the bearing housing to lock the bearing in place.
(5) Install the outer bearing seal with tension spring on the outside of the bearing housing cavity.
(6) Install the woodruff key, coupling, gear and nut.
(7) Install the bearing housing onto the adaptor flange. Ensure the o-ring is in the correct position.
(8) Install the bolts and tighten to 40.7 – 46.1 N m or 30-34 lb ft.

For those with bronze cams, assemble the raw water pump as follows:

(1) Install the wear plate in the pump housing, with the locating hole in the plate over the dowel in the housing.
(2) Place the cam in the housing so the end of the cam is flush with the end of the housing, and install the bolt.
(3) Support the splined end of the shaft on a wood block on an arbor press bed.
(4) Start the bearing straight on the shaft and using a sleeve between the press ram and the bearing inner race, press the bearing tight against the shoulder on the shaft.
(5) Install the bearing seal in the housing with the lip facing toward the bearing.
(6) Place the slinger in position and press the shaft and bearing into the counterbore in the housing.
(7) Install the bearing retainer in the groove in the housing.
(8) Install a woodruff key in the shaft and start the gear straight on the shaft over the key.
(9) Place the housing in an arbor press, with the splined end of the shaft supported on a wood block, and press the gear tight against the shoulder on the shaft.
(10) Clamp the gear in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not exceed specified torque. The shaft will fracture and damage the pump.
(11) Install the lock washer and retaining nut. Torque the nut to 34-41 N m or 25-30 lb ft.
(12) Align marks on the housing and adaptor, and install the six lock washers and bolts.

Disassemble the Blower Detroit 16V149

(1) On 12V engines, remove the nine 3/8 in bolts, one nut, lock washers, and plain washers securing the governor drive assembly to the front blower.
(2) Remove the governor drive assembly and gasket.
(3) Place a clean cloth between the rotors, and remove the 1 5/16 in. -8 retainer nut and spacer from the right hand helix rotor.
(4) Remove the ten 3/8in – 16 x 3.25 in bolts, lock washers, and plain washers securing each of the blower end plate covers to the rear of the front blower and the front and rear of the rear blower.
(5) Remove the blower end plate covers and gaskets.
(6) Remove the three 7/16 in -20 x .88 in self locking bolts securing each blower drive coupling hub to the right hand helix timing gear of each blower.
(7) Remove the hub and spring plate assemblies.
(8) Remove the three 7/16 in-20 x .88 in self locking bolts securing the blower drive coupling hub to the front of the rear blower.
(9) Remove the hub and spring plate assembly.
(10) Place a clean cloth between the rotors, and bend the tang of the lock washer back.
(11) Remove the 1-5/16 in-18 retaining nut and lock washer securing the blower coupling hub to the front of the right hand helix rotor on the rear blower. Place a clean cloth between the rotors when removing the hub.
(12) Using puller J 22706-1, remove the blower drive coupling hub from the front right hand helix rotor shaft of the rear blower.

Complete disassembly process as follows :

(1) Place a clean cloth between the rotors. Bend the tang of each lock washer open, and remove the 1 5/16in-18 retaining nuts securing the timing gears to the rotor shafts. Matchmark the blower components to help in reassembly.
(2) Remove the 1 5/16in-18 retainer nut from the front end of the left hand rotor assembly.
(3) Remove the self locking bolts securing the rotos shaft bearing retainers to the front blower end plate.
(4) Remove the retainers and outer bearing spacers.
(5) Remove the blower front end plate. Tap the end plate with a plastic hammer to loosen it from the housing.
The roller bearing inner races will remain on the rotor shafts. The blower seals lip type will be damaged during removal and cannot be reused.
(6) Remove the timing gears. Both must be pulled at the same time. Back out the center screws of both pullers and place the flanges against the gear faces, aligning the flange holes with the tapped holes in the gears. Secure the pullers to the gears with six 7/16 in-20 x 1.5 in bolts, three on each gear. With a clean cloth placed between the rotors to prevent rotation, turn the two puller screws uniformly clockwise, and withdraw the gears from the rotor shafts.
(7) Remove the shims from the roto shafts, and note the number and thickness of shims on each rotor shaft to ensure identical replacement when assembling the blower.
(8) Remove the three self-locking bolts securing each rotor shaft bearing reainter to the blower end plate.
(9) Remove the retainers.
(10) Remove the rotors from the rear end plate and blower housing as follows: Install two temporary hold down bolts through the rear blower end plate. Back out the center screws of the pullers far enough to allow the flanges of the pullers to lay flat on the face of the rear end plate. Align the holes of the puller flanges with the tapped holes in the end plate. Ensure the 5/16 in bolts are fully threaded into the tapped holes in the end plate. This will provide maximum anchorage for the pullers. Secure the pullers to the end plate with six 5/16in – 18 x 1.25 in bolts. Turn the puller screws in a clockwise direction to push the blower rotors out of the rear end plate. Push the rotors out together. Remove the bolts securing the rear end plate to the housing and remove the rear end plate. It may be necessary to tap the end plate lightly with a plastic hammer.
(11) Remove bearing and seals from the blower rotor shafts and end plates.

Wash components in oil and dry with compressed air.

Examine the ball bearings for pitting or corrosion. Inspect the rotors for burrs, and scoring. Inspect the rotor shafts serrations for wear. Inspect the inside of the blower housing for burrs or scoring. Inspect the blower housing end plates for flatness or burrs.

Detroit 16V149 Thermostats

Six blocking type thermostats automatically control the coolant temperature. Some high output engines may be equipped with an ILCC system having a utilized thermostat and plate assembly located on the engine left bank. This assembly controls the coolant flow to the intercooler. The thermostat valve closes when cold, and opens when it is too hot. When the thermostat valves remain closed, the coolant flow through radiator or heat exchanger is blocked. When the thermostat valves open, they allow some coolant to flow to the radiator and the bypass circuit. During the engine warmup, all engine coolant flows through the bypass circuit. As the thermostat opens, increasing amounts of coolant flow to the radiator and the bypass flow is reduced. At approximately 9.6 – 11.2 degrees C, or 17 to 20 degrees F. above the thermostat opening temperature, the bypass is fully blocked and the total coolant flow is directed into the radiator. Series 149 thermostats are not vented due to the rapid warm-up cooling system.

The bypass circuit provides a route for coolant circulation before the thermostat opens. Coolant from the top of the engine flows to the water pump without passing though the radiator or other heat exchanger. This bypass coolant flow permits the engine to warm up to operating temperature while preventing hot spots that might damage the engine during operation. Do not operate and engine without a thermostat, as this can cause water condensation can mix with lubricating oil and form corrosive acids and sludge. This will restrict the oil flow and accelerate engine wear. It can also lead to rougher idling and increased white smoke.

When to Replace a Thermostat on a 16V149 Engine

First, drain the cooling system, remove the thermostat, and clean it. If it has worn or dirty parts, or the cover seal appears to be damaged, then replace it. Always place new seals when replacing.

Detroit Diesel 149 Engines Parts - Aftermarket